Dalyan-ce

Tombs of the Lycian King (ca. 400 BCE)

Four days back in Dalyan. Last trip we parked it on a beach in Cirali which was very. Ice, but on the whole I think this place has a bit more to offer. The early flight out from Cappadocia involved a long taxi ride from Ayvali to Kayseri, early morning on the Cappadocian plains. The volcano outside Kayseri is remarkable, but otherwise the flight from there back to Istanbul and then on to Dalaman was in eventful.

Pegasus Airlines did offer a refresher course on the charms of super economy air travel, starting with some surprise overage charges for baggage and a bill for the glass of tea proffered in flight - but okay, it was a cheap flight and here we are.

Dalyan is our beach place, so there's not a whole lot of opportunity for historical or cultural observations. Actually, beaches are a kind of inter-cultural constant. Sun and surf reverts us to some kind of pre-Babel state of harmony and agreement.

We paced the visit here nicely. Jumped in the river and enjoyed the gardens of this happy little hotel (pansyon, really, although there is a magnificent meal served up each night). Monday we got to the beach. Tuesday we took advantage of the fact that there are four of us traveling together. That means a private tour boat is your for pretty much the same price as hopping on a boat with a larger gang and following the instructions of the guide. We rode outside Dalyan to swim near the caves in the next bay. We saw sea turtles chase after crabs tossed in the water by the tour guides, lunch, sulfur mud baths, and a trip to Lake Koycegiz for a final fresh water swim and rinse. Beautiful weather, wonderful water.... More beach today.

The town here - I think- has grown a bit since I was here last (seven years?). Mostly it's tourist trinket joints, restaurants and cafés, some facing the river and others pitching their "garden" seating. The touts in front of the dinner places do a good job at chatting you up all the way up and down the street. It's a beach vacation city. The shadow of Ramadan seems a lot thinner here, and come to think of it the call to prayer is scarcely audible at least in this part of town.

The place where we are staying is beautiful. A long house with only about ten or so rooms emptying out onto a gorgeous and beautifully maintained garden that opens on to a terrace and a dock on the river. The ancient tombs of the Lycian Kings (ca 400 BCE) rise up on the other side of the river. Each morning I start with a plunge into the river for a brackish water rinse and stretch. My only complaint is about the beds - about as large and soft as a camping mattress. I find myself taking a couple ibuprofen to prepare for the nights sleep. The hotel back in Istanbul tomorrow will be a welcome sleep, at least for that reason.

 

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